A Cabbage Patch Kid: The History of Colcannon

When I was a young boy, I used to wait patiently near my mother while she cut and prepared cabbage for our dinner. I always looked forward to being rewarded with the heart of the cabbage that she carefully cut out. I love cabbage. Whether the cabbage is boiled, fried, or served raw, the vegetable has always been one of my favorites.

My fondness for cabbage often connects me to an Irish culinary tradition. The name colcannon is derived from the Gaelic “Cal Ceannann,” meaning "White-headed Cabbage." The earliest written reference comes from an account by William Bulkeley in Dublin in 1735, describing colcannon as a hearty mix of cabbage, potatoes, and parsnips, commonly enjoyed during Halloween festivities. Part of the tradition included placing tokens in the dish to predict fortunes—a ring signaling marriage, a coin indicating future wealth, and a rag or stick hinting at either poverty or a harsh spouse. A central well often cradled butter or an egg, which would be stirred in for good luck just before serving.

Colcannon remains a modern way to connect us to our Irish roots and our childhood memories. Over time, colcannon has become more than just a traditional dish. The spirit of colcannon has endured across generations. It provided comfort and sustenance during the Irish Revolution and other challenging times in Ireland and represents the resilience woven into Irish heritage. When Irish families brought their traditions to America, colcannon remained a centerpiece at gatherings and is often served with corned beef for St. Patrick's Day.

Ingredients:

3 lbs russet potatoes, peeled and chopped

5 Tbsp butter, plus more for serving if desired

8 cups chopped cabbage

1 cup half-and-half or buttermilk

½ tsp salt or to taste

4 tsp horseradish sauce

Instructions:

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the chopped potatoes, and simmer for about 10-15 minutes until the potatoes are very tender. (The tip of a sharp knife should slide in easily.)

2. Drain the potatoes and set them aside.

3. In the same pot, melt 2 Tbsp of butter, and saute the chopped cabbage over low-medium heat for 5-10 minutes until soft.

4. Take off the heat, add the potatoes back to the pot along with the rest of the butter, half-and-half, salt, and horseradish sauce. Mash together with a potato masher until all the ingredients are fully incorporated.

5. Adjust seasonings to taste, and serve with more butter if desired.

There is a horseradish "sauce" often added to, or served alongside, colcannon for a spicy kick. It is typically a mixture of prepared horseradish (grated root with vinegar) combined with sour cream or mayonnaise, and often enhanced with ingredients like garlic, dill, or chives.

This St Patrick's Day, celebrate alongside our Irish friends and families by baking some hearty corned beef, then serving it up with a generous helping of delicious colcannon.